a journey to the middle east via the tastebuds: the best of middle eastern food in australia
from fattoush to fenugreek seeds, pita bread to pilaf, labneh to lavosh, to Middle eastern food embodies a complex history and rich regional variations. here in australia, that rich history continues with immigrants from all across the middle east bringing a taste of the homeland to new shores. today, middle eastern food runs the gamut from fine dining to hole in the wall patisseries, and can be found across every major city. Below, our guide to the best of middle eastern food across australia.
image credit: parwana kitchen
Sydney
Stanbuli
On Sydney’s bustling Enmore Road sits a time capsule from the 1950s: a candy-coloured front of fairy floss pink and pastel purple with hand-painted signage preserved from its past as a hair salon. Behind its doors, ex-Porteño chef Ibrahim Kasif serves up raki mezesi, mixed plates of cured meats (made in house), cheeses, and flat breads. Charcoal meats are also on the menu, including sefali, a cyrpriot kebab of smoky tender lamb and beef. We recommend sitting at the bar – order a glass of their traditional aniseed-infused Turkish liqueur and watch the staff do their thing.
image credit: Broadsheet
image credit: broadsheet
Yummy Yummy Knafeh
Located in Sydney’s South West is Yummy Yummy Knafeh, a pastry shop that’s famous amongst locals and almost never without a queue out the door. The establishment offers a single dish – Knafeh - a traditional Middle Eastern Dessert that’s considered to be an icon of Palestinian cuisine. Whilst the dessert has many iterations, theirs is made from shredded filo pastry that’s soaked in a sweet syrup and layered with cheese and pistachio. You can also order a cup of Turkish Coffee – the thick, strong brew is the perfect complement to the richness of Knafeh.
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Adelaide
Parwana Kitchen
Stepping into Adelaide’s Parwana Kitchen feels more like stepping into a family home, than a restaurant. Founded in 2009 by Zelmai and Farida Ayubi, the couple welcome diners like guests in their own home, treating them to the “culinary pleasures of age-old secrets of traditional Afghan cuisine – a cuisine which encapsulates the often forgotten aspects of interconnection that shape the human story”. Farida, the restaurant’s chef and family matriarch, serves up chicken/lamb kebabs (Gosht), rice pilaf (Kabuli Palaw), and their signature eggplant dish (Banjan Borani), all designed to be shared. The restaurant’s walls are papered with family portraits, murals, and family treasures, all of which let the diners in on the family’s history. Corkage fees are donated to the homeless, and more recently, the family hosted a fundraising dinner to raise funds for Afghan relief.
Melbourne
Tulum
For a fine dining encounter with Turkish cuisine, Melbourne’s Tulum is the place to go. As with most of the region’s cuisine, plates are designed to be shared, with cold mezze and seafood small plates that champion Australian produce amongst the offerings. Tulum’s founder and head chef Coskun Uysal brings whimsy and a fine dining touch to the cuisine of his childhood. One of the restaurant’s signature mezze, for example, is a riff on Uysal’s favourite childhood snack - Smoked Yoghurt, Poached Egg, Chicken Skin, Burnt Butter, Turkish Bread. With warm service and an interior outfitted by one of the city’s best architecture firms, Tulum is the perfect place for a date night or a special occasion.
photo credit: tulum
image credit: tulum
Oasis Bakery
Whether you’re looking for zaatar spice, pita bread, or homemade baclava, Melbourne’s Oasis Bakery is aptly named as a veritable oasis of Middle-Eastern goods. The establishment is a supermarket, café, and cooking school all rolled into one. Founded in the 1990s by the Makool family who migrated from Lebanon in the 1970s, Oasis has become somewhat of an institution for those searching for exotic-fare outside your traditional supermarket offerings. Head over for a Middle-Eastern twist on breakfast in their in-house café, and get inspiration in one of Marwa’s cooking demonstrations before completing a marathon shopping trip in preparation for dinner.
Brisbane
Za Za Ta
For Brisbaners that crave the spice and smokiness of the middle east without the heavy meat, Za Za Ta is a 100% plant-based eatery drawing inspiration from Israeli cuisine. Housed in a sprawling Queenslander, the restaurant marries the tropicana feel of North-East Australia with the charm of bustling Tel Aviv. Menu highlights include shish barak style (Lebanese-style) dumplings filled with sweet pumpkin, burnt chilli butter, and local truffles, and their cauliflower shawarma that even the staunchest of meat lovers will adore. Za Za Ta is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
image credit: za za ta
image credit: za za ta
Perth
Bringing Middle Eastern food with an Australian flair to Perth is are restaurant veterans Scott Bridger and Eamon Sullivan (formerly of Olympic swimming fame). Pogo is a fun and poppy diner with pastel pink walls and a playful approach to food. Think saha prawn toast, Turkish dumplings plump with beef cheek, and a host of sweets for dessert all made in-house. Their food is best enjoyed in a shared setting, sitting outside in the restaurant’s sunny courtyard with a cocktail in hand.
image credit: Pogo
image credit: pogo