I arrive at the Viceroy having lost three kilos in four days. I know this because they have weight scales in the gym here. The gym is not somewhere I am going to exercise, but rather to do some mild yoga. You see, I’ve had Bali Belly. I feel it's Bali’s way of cleansing my system, purging anything unnecessary. Or maybe it was just eating at the wrong restaurant. But that’s the thing about Bali, it’s spirituality gets under your skin and suddenly everything that happens is for a reason, occurrences take on a spiritual meaning that you can mine with enough yoga and meditation. Needless to say, I was deeply relieved to arrive at the sanctuary of wellness that is Viceroy Ubud.

I have lived in Bali for many months and the stay at the Viceroy culminates at the end of the longest period in one country after a year of non-stop travel. Bali has been good for the soul, and as it turns out, the Viceroy is the perfect way to say farewell to this transformational place.

CHECK IN

Viceroy is found in Ubud, the spiritual heartland on the Island of the Gods. We get a tour of the property, and even its helipad, on golf buggies that will take you wherever you want to go - which is especially handy if you’re feeling too blissed out after a massage. Staff greet you at the car, place a lei of frangipanis around your neck, and your luggage is somehow secreted away, so you need not worry about anything as draining as logistics. For a weary traveller, this is a welcome tonic.

ROOM

We have a jungle view private pool villa that is palatial. The marble bathroom is a room unto itself, centred by a focal bathtub. On either side are his and hers vanities of huge expanse, a rain shower, and a separate toilet. There is also a walk in wardrobe. The open living space has a lounge area and the bed is much wider than a king size. You could get lost in it. The room has towering bamboo ceilings which gives you a strong sense of expansiveness, only to be complimented by the high jungle view. The infinity edged pool edges into a cliff which falls into the steep Petanu Valley, also known as the Valley of the Kings, for its former home to Balinese royalty. It is serene as it sounds. There’s a turndown service and slippers and robes add to the home away from home feel.

AMBIENCE

With a private cushioned pagoda by the pool, this is the ideal space for a morning meditation or journaling. The hotel, and the pool, faces into the sunrise, so it is a beautiful spot to greet the morning. We also order room service and the attendant lays it out for us in the sheltered pagoda. There are sunloungers and the private pool is long enough to call swimming laps of it exercise. It’s luxury, but it's still Bali. Geckos are still audible as they hide in the roof, and the sounds of the jungle still pour in, which makes it all the more charming.

WELLNESS

There are large infinity edge pools, but most people staying here have their own private pools, so it’s rarely used. The massage at the spa is tailored to your needs, you just highlight the areas you want focus on and choose an essential oil. The therapist washes your feet first in a copper tub of warm lime water. The signature Balinese massage uses long strokes and eradicates all tension in the body. You can choose your pressure and the therapists are well trained.

DINING

Breakfast at CasCades is a la carte, do yourself a favour and order the waffles with fresh fruit or the Balinese Benedict, poached eggs on Balinese corn fritters. The restaurant here is surrounded by water and feels as if you are floating. For higher end dining, the Degustation destination Aperitif will wow you. It starts with a cocktail at the speakeasy bar, with options such as a Nightshade Negroni or Reviver or The Primitivist with white chocolate and scotch infused coffee. Three aperitifs are served with the drinks, including tiny ice cream cones with fish tartar, and charcoal puffs of smoked mackerel served in a smokey glass dome. Then comes oyster course with gingerflower and dashi, a wagyu carpaccio with black garlic and bone marrow, heirloom tomato with kombucha, spring chicken, venison wellington with foie gras. The final three courses of the nine total is a white desert of mango, meringue, coconut and cheesecake crumble, a peanut butter mousse with blackberry, and finally petit fours. Bring a hearty appetite, for the portions are exceedingly generous and the produce and techniques incredibly impressive.

LOCATION

We get a tour of the property, and even its helipad, on golf buggies that will take you wherever you want to go - which is especially handy if you’re feeling too blissed out after a massage. There’s a free shuttle into Ubud city centre for activities like the Sacred Monkey Forest and the City Palace, but I have zero desire to leave this blissful compound.

TRANSFORMATION FACTOR: 5/5

The Viceroy is an elegant tropical enclave and rewards travellers with a calm Bali experience. I walked away fully healed and healthy after my sickness pre-arrival. The staff catered to my every need, sending me lemon, honey and ginger tea without me asking when they found out I had been unwell. They continued bringing it multiple times a day. The peaceful architecture and thoughtful design made me feel very grounded and creative. The spaces are designed to be expansive, and that’s how your thoughts will be. It’s a big sky thinking hotel and that is a very covetable feeling to secure amid the rush of life. Highly recommend.

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