skip science, travel can teach you the elements in this blazing country
Oman can be broken down into its elements, from water to people to the fire of the desert sand, the blue of the oases and the moonscape of its land.
WATER:
Water is more startling when unexpectedly found in stark environs like these. One of the most beautiful places in the country is the Bimmah Sinkhole, the embodiment of a desert oasis, a little over 2 hours from the capital, Muscat. It’s gaping, limestone mouth is more than 40 metres in width and 20 metres deep. You can go down the steps to the edge of the sinkhole and swim right in.
There’s also staggering beaches in Oman. Fins Beach will subvert your expectations, with bleached sand and pale blue water. Other coastal treasures are the sea turtles that migrate to Oman to lay their eggs under the shroud of night. A sanctuary at Ras al Jinz allows you to witness this phenomenon silently by torchlight.
Despite the lack of rain in some areas of Oman, you’ll be surprised by the range of water-based activities and sights. There are the fjords in Musandam, in the north of the country, dramatic enough to compare to those of Norway. There’s also Masirah Island, with its confounding barren-meets-blue aesthetic. Lagoons to one side and Indian Ocean waves to the other make it an absolute dreamboat for surfers and kiteboarders, from amateurs to experts.
Oman's deep, rocky gullies, carved out by seasonal floodwaters over millennia, are known locally as wadis. These vital places might be, depending on the season, dry river beds perfect for a 4WD adventure, fast flowing canyons fed by springs bubbling directly from the rock face, or tranquil emerald-green pools ideal for an unforgettable, cooling dip. Bring your swimmers
PEOPLE:
Equally fascinating but much less silent are Oman’s markets or souqs. You will inevitably be led to a merchant tending goods. Friendly haggling is expected and the deal done with a smile. The souqs of Oman are animated dens of rosewater, frankincense, spice, gold, silver and myrrh. Jewellery and fabric are take-home requisites. Dark Omani honey and traditional metal coffee urns are also prized, as are local perfumes whose floral or woody notes will magically transport you back at home.
There are relics of communities who existed here many millennia before the year dot. The beehive tombs of Bat are evidence of settlements from around 3000 BC. There are 100 of these dome tombs as well as stone towers that are almost 5000 years old. The most picturesque tombs are found at Wadi Al Ayn, where 21 run parallel to the crest of a hill. Clearly this was a revered place for these ancient people.
SANDS AND ROCK:
The counterpoint to Oman’s waters is the Sharqiya Sands. You’d be surprised how much you can get up to out here in the sand. You can dune bash, camel-ride, or quad bike your way over the ever-changing terrain. There are more than 160 graded rock climbs for the pro’s in Oman. Oman also boasts one of the world’s largest cave chambers in the Hajar Mountains, Majlis al Jinn (Genies Meeting Place) which is large enough to fit the Great Pyramid of Giza inside it.
ARCHITECTURE:
The castles and forts of Oman sit robustly on the land, their stark geometries interrupting the landscape. One of the finest castles sits at Jabrin, and harks back to an era of cloak and dagger transactions. This was the Iman’s own palace, so there are 55 rooms. The two most fascinating are the Sun and Moon, and the Protection Room. The Sun and Moon room is adorned with Islamic calligraphy while the Protection Room housed his soldiers beneath in case a welcomed nemesis threatened the Iman from within the castle walls.
For a living time capsule visit Misfah Al Abreeyan, a village where 500-year-old houses, alleys and farm terraces show their age, and are more charming for it. Set amid an oasis, the contrast of ochre coloured buildings and bright green trees is electric. Many of the oasis towns in Oman are built on hills, historically for protection, which makes them all the more stunning to look at, and views from within often breath-taking.