For centuries, traders have carved the waters of fort kochi that are littered with lilies at the bank. Transactions over spices made this part of India one of the most multicultural. There’s even a 16th century synagogue. The city, therefore, is accustomed to welcoming foreigners and explorers to their shores.

The Dutch and Portuguese influence is strong here, and staying in a property that harks back to this era brings the history of this trading port to life. 

Brunton Boatyard is a two-level colonial mansion with a courtyard of lush Banyan trees to the centre and views onto the sea passage to the front. The trees have grown taller than the building, which creates a canopy of puregreen.

There’s plenty of action on the water, with tugboats, ferries and commercial liners all cruising through and somehow not colliding in the narrow strip. The hotel thoughtfully provides earplugs in case their honking gets too much for some. It doesn’t bother me, but the accompanying seagulls actually create more of a racket, but compared to other parts of India, this is about as peaceful as it gets. For those who wish to wake to match the goings-on beyond the window, there is sunrise yoga held in the peaceful courtyard.

When in India’s peaceful south; partake. Two other guests joined, and we went through some sedate poses but focused more on the breath. Mainly closing one nostril and breathing in through the other, switching to make it equal. Yes, even the yoga is heavily sedated in Fort Kochi.

As for the traditional dance of the area, it is also delightfully lazy. You arrive to the performance of Kathakali and the key act is still putting on his make up. You think he could have done it before the show. It turns out this is the official protocol of the performance, and has some significance beyond the amusement that comes from the application of layers of face paint. On arrival, you do question if you’re in the right place as the protagonist sits cross-legged on a woven mat meticulously adorning his cheeks. Onexplanation, you realize that this man is becoming a God, and these things take time. An hour to be precise. He’s shirtless and manages to hold a hand mirror while painting with the other hand. The Kathakali is a representation of the Gods from famous epics, and their makeup revels their true nature. In simplest terms, green means good, red means powerful and black means demons. Traditionally, the performing time is 10-12 hours. This is the abridged version.

Which is fortunate as there’s much to see in this city. Famed for its stilt fisherman, who’s skills tightroping nets and stocks over the water is mesmerising and mindful. Again, it’s slow and precise.

Back at Brunton Boatyard, I learn that Salman Rushdie based his novel The Moor’s Last Sigh in this hotel. After a night on Kerala’s backwaters, I return to the hotel room to find a home made sign from housekeeping welcoming me back with handwritten texta and flowers stuck to the paper.

On arrival a garland of marigold and jasmine flowers are ringed around necks and the scent is potent. The senses are smacked further with a cool flannel and iced cardamom tea.

The turndown service is a sensory delight, as the thoughtful staff leave jasmine flowers on the bed sheets and the fresh scent balances out the scent of teak wood from the indulgent four poster bed, so high that it necessitates steps.

Brunton Boatyard takes environmental initiatives seriously, which is a relief after seeing the pollution rife in India first hand, coming from the north. The toiletries are in ceramic jars and it’s all about using local and sustainable products. There’s also no television in the room, which is liberating and frees up time to just sit and watch the passing drama. The pool runs parallel to the waterway and is overseen by a statue of two dolphins. Apparently dolphins are frequently sighted along this stretch. The perfect concoction of dawdling culture, it’s the perfect entry point to India.