As the plane began its descent into Tehran, I felt nervous. The women around me, previously bare-headed, began to ensconce their hair in head scarves. Arms are covered up with jackets after the humidity of Dubai, where we boarded.

After a week in Iran with two female locals, my perception on female independence utterly changed. Some women would have scarfs that would slip off exposing their hair. I was worried at first, and wanted to point out, but swiftly realized. She knew.

It’s a great lesson about Iran. There are rules to adhere to but there’s some flexibility around it. It could have just ‘accidentally’ slipped off and no one would point it out.

Here is an interview from the trip asking questions about what its like to be a woman working in travel in Iran, filmed on location in Shiraz.